Arrival in the heart of the Marquesas

Marquesas

April 2024

After eighteen days and 3,032 miles at sea, we finally reached the Marquesas island of Hiva Oa. It was early morning, the sun was just beginning to climb over the horizon, but unfortunately, the weather wasn't at its best. Nevertheless, the island appeared impressive and almost mystical in the first light of day – a dark, green silhouette rising from the ocean.

18 days of nothing but blue skies – and we're right in the middle of it.

Daily rigging check – safety begins on deck

Hiva Oa in sight – finally land on the horizon

We anchor in Atuona Bay, framed by lush green hills. After clearing customs, we manage to rent a car – the best decision for exploring the island at our own pace. It doesn't take long for us to notice something truly special: the people. Everywhere we go, we're greeted with open, friendly faces. Almost all the women wear a flower in their hair, and it seems perfectly natural for them to offer us tropical fruits and vegetables. This warmth touches us deeply.

Michael is enjoying our homegrown salad in the garden.

Nina immerses herself in the lush green after all those days of only blue.

Between jungle and ocean – traveling on Hiva Oa

What we enjoy most after our long time at sea, however, is the greenery. Trees, tropical forests, plants in all shapes and colors – it's as if our senses are being flooded with it. Almost intoxicating. We stop in the middle of the forest, spread out our picnic on the back of our pickup truck, and simply let everything wash over us: the sounds of nature, the humid air, the vibrant colors, and the view out to sea.

Hiva Oa is the final resting place of two famous figures: Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel. Both spent their last years here, and we visit their graves, nestled in a lush, tropical landscape. Surrounded by flowering plants and with a sweeping view of the sea, these places appear serene and dignified – perhaps not a bad place to settle down after all.

The island also boasts a small but beautifully designed museum dedicated to the life and work of Paul Gauguin. Of course, we won't miss a visit. It's truly special to see his art – which we already know well – right where it was created. The colors, the motifs, the light: suddenly everything makes even more sense.

The Marquesas Islands are just as famous for their dramatic landscapes as they are for their so-called tikis. These mysterious stone statues can be found in many places on the islands – sometimes quite obviously, but sometimes so well hidden that you can only spot them in the dense jungle with a keen eye.

Our next leg takes us further south to the island of Fatu Hiva. Even the approach to Hanavave Bay is an unforgettable moment. High, steep, lush green mountains surround the anchorage, while rain clouds gather above, punctuated by colorful rainbows. The unique atmosphere of this place is almost impossible to put into words – it is among the most impressive we have ever experienced.

We embark on an island tour with other sailors, which not only offers spectacular views but also valuable encounters with the locals. A particularly memorable experience is our visit to a family whose women are renowned for their artful tapas. These traditional fabrics are made from the bark of a tropical tree and originally served as wall and floor coverings in huts. With great patience and skill, the production process is demonstrated before the tapas are decorated with the dark ink of the betel nut and typical Marquesan patterns. As a parting gift, the women in our group receive lovingly tied bouquets of flowers for our hair – fragrant with cinnamon and other aromatic barks.

On our continued journey north, we make a stopover at Tahuata Island. We drop anchor in a secluded, almost untouched bay. The fine sandy beach is only accessible at high tide and in calm seas, but that's precisely what makes this place so special. We also take the opportunity to clean our hull – always keeping a watchful eye on the wind and waves, because as soon as the swell builds in the bay, it's time to set sail.

In Nuku Hiva, a very special welcome awaits us. Together with our friends, we are greeted by the locals with a feast. We experience firsthand how traditional dishes are prepared and enjoy a lavish meal, including pork cooked in the traditional way in an umu (earth oven). The culture is also well represented: After an impressive performance, we are introduced to the traditional dances of the Marquesas Islands – and soon we are joining in ourselves, accompanied by drums.

Another highlight is a horseback ride across the Nuku Hiva plateau. The vast, wild landscape deeply impresses us and gives us an authentic glimpse into local life. We repeatedly encounter wild horses roaming freely through the countryside. A particularly intense moment is when our guide – assisted by his dogs – actually tracks down and captures a wild boar. An experience that allows us to feel the primal power and immediacy of these islands in a truly powerful way.